Blink and you might miss it, but Bathurst is a fascinating little place about 15km inland from Port Alfred on the road to Grahamstown. It is an 1820 Settler village with a turbulent history but is now a peaceful hamlet, albeit with a strange, eclectic mix of old and new. Bathurst has become a village of retired academics, artists, eccentrics and pineapple farmers.
Besides worth a visit for a drink at the Pig and Whistle alone, you will get a wonderful insight into the early British Settler's world.
The Big Pineapple is an icon – some say an eyesore – on the local landscape. It is the largest artificial pineapple in the world and is the locals’ way of paying homage to this ubiquitous fruit that is the principal crop in the area. Bathurst is one of the largest pineapple growing areas in South Africa. The Big Pineapple is a 16,7m-high, three-storey fibreglass pineapple, inside which is a 60-seater auditorium. You can also learn everything you might ever have wanted to know about pineapples and pineapple farming.
Following the motto of ‘today’s machinery is tomorrow’s history’, the Bathurst Agricultural Museum was established in 1970 as a home for old farming implements. What began as a 30-item display has now developed into a remarkable museum with more than 2 000 objects. Ox wagons, steam engines, old tractors, ostrich incubators and dairy utensils are but a few of the farming artefacts that can be seen here.
Nearby is the Waters Meeting Nature Reserve, home to many species of animals, bird and plants. The reserve offers hiking trails, picnic spots and a lovely view of the river and valley. There are canoe trails and scenic hikes galore.
Bathurst’s main claim to fame is that it was the administrative centre for the 1820 British Settlers who were established in the district as a buffer between the Cape colony and the local Xhosa pastoralists. It was established by British Settlers in May 1820 and was named after Lord Bathurst, the British Colonial Secretary.
The Toposcope marks the spot where the 1820 British Settlers locations were surveyed. 57 bronze plaques record details of families and settlements.
A quick stroll around the village today will reveal very old buildings bearing Victorian-era names like Bleak House, Morley House and Bradshaw’s Mill. Bradshaw’s Mill is a water-driven wool mill containing a working water wheel. It is now restored and is a provincial heritage site. The oldest unadulterated Anglican church building in South Africa is in Bathurst - the church of St John - was built in 1837.
The Pig and Whistle, at the heart of the village, is known as the oldest pub in the country and has a loyal following - both among locals and with regular visitors to this part of the country.
